Homage watches evoke varied sentiments among watch enthusiasts. These timepieces pay tribute to an icon or heavily borrow from classic designs.
Consider the Rolex Submariner, a watch that birthed numerous tool watches. Some drew inspiration from its diving theme, while others closely followed the design laid out by the Crown. Distinguishing between homage and copy can be a topic of debate in the watch world.
However, what if a watch has a direct lineage to its inspiration? Was it reintroduced under new ownership to uphold the brand’s military-standard heritage? Can a modern revival remain faithful to the classic while meeting the demands of today’s field use? These questions led me to explore Timor’s Heritage Field WWW (Wrist. Watch. Waterproof.), one of the original field watches commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense during World War II.
Timor generously provided me with a Heritage Field WWW automatic ($1,041) to test extensively this spring. I took it cycling, trail running, and even to Mexico for a week to endure surf and jungle conditions. Throughout, the watch proved to be a delightful companion. Here are my insights on the watch and what makes it a timeless piece with modern twists.
In summary: The Timor Heritage Field WWW incorporates several modern enhancements that enhance its historical origins. At a price slightly over $1,000, it may not be inexpensive, but it offers a significant pedigree in a Swiss-made watch.
For more information about the field watch market, take a look at GearJunkie’s guide to the best field watches.
Timor Heritage Field WWW Review
I have a profound appreciation for a compelling backstory, and Timor boasts one of the finest.
The Timor Heritage Field WWW was one of the original Dirty Dozen—12 watch manufacturers awarded contracts by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) to supply timepieces to British soldiers during World War II. Only brands with contracts from the MoD feature the Broad Arrow emblem. These watches were designed for rugged use and laid the groundwork for the modern field watch.
Established in 1923, Timor faced challenges with the advent of quartz technology, remaining largely obscure until Benjamin Briggs, a British Army veteran, recently acquired the UK distribution rights for Timor from its Swiss parent company, Aerowatch. Drawing on his military background, Briggs focused on the historical field watch that brought Timor to prominence.
In 2020, Briggs reintroduced two classic field watches from Timor’s archives—the Heritage Field ATP (Army Trade Pattern) and the Heritage Field WWW. Of the two, the WWW truly pays homage to the Dirty Dozen and was lent to me by Timor for a month this spring.
Traditional and Contemporary Elements
Purists who long for the good old days will find solace in the fact that the Heritage Field WWW remains a faithful reimagining of the original timepiece.
The watch’s layout has not been adjusted to conform to modern design principles. The case size retains the classic 36.5mm dimension. Time is indicated along a railroad track minute ring. A small seconds sub-dial is nestled in the lower portion of the dial, with “Swiss Made” subtly printed at the six o’clock position. Even down to the distinctive curve in the number 4, resembling the Cyrillic script д, the WWW closely resembles the original watch.
However, it incorporates several welcome improvements. Instead of an acrylic crystal, a scratch-resistant sapphire shields the dial. The watch boasts a bead-blasted steel case overlaid with a smoothly polished bezel, giving it a warm titanium-like appearance.
Beneath the surface, the watch is driven by a modern Sellita movement, available in either the hand-wound SW216 caliber or the automatic SW260, delivering a smooth sweep of the small seconds hand.
Furthermore, the luminescence receives a modern update with Super-LumiNova, replacing the radium used previously. A definite nod to safety.
Field Performance
During my ownership trial, I took the demo model on roads, trails, running, and cycling activities. I ventured into the tropical jungle of Mexico, albeit with gentle handling. Despite its petite size, it proved dependable. However, it did encounter a slight hiccup when I took it off for the weekend.
With a 38-hour power reserve, its longevity is relatively short. If removed on a Friday, by Monday morning, you’ll need to reset the time and wind it to restart the automatic mechanism.
Thankfully, the crown is substantial, grippy, and easily adjustable for time changes. Need to switch time zones? The watch allows for hacking, stopping the seconds hand while adjusting the hour hand. Once set, resume operation by pushing the crown back in—a seamless process.
Having owned various digital watches over the past decade—from Garmin to Suunto to Apple—it’s refreshing to swiftly adjust the time and continue with activities.
This usability factor is characteristic of a good field watch. It should be user-friendly, straightforward, and offer clear legibility. Much of its functionality is in the clean and organized layout. While the watch measures 36.5mm, a dimension that, though gaining popularity, still appears relatively dainty compared to the sea of smartwatches.
For instance, my Garmin Fenix 7 uses an interface measured in inches (not mm) and dwarfs the majority of modern automatic watches that typically fall around 39mm. The Timor is notably 4-6mm smaller than the standard.
Timor Heritage Field WWW Watch Review: Compact yet Readable
After a period of wear, my eye adjusted to the large size of the Garmin, and similarly, with the Timor. Following a week of use, the diminutive scale felt natural on my 6.5-inch wrist.
It achieves this effortlessly with its uncluttered face. The white hour markers contrast against the matte black dial, with simple tropical beige Super-LumiNova indices adorning the minute markers. In adherence to the original design, the second’s sub-dial occupies the bottom half of the dial.
The dial is easy to read at a glance, though tracking the seconds may be slightly more challenging. While the concept of the seconds sub-dial is appealing, the vintage beige color lacks contrast compared to white. Additionally, the sub-dial may be obscured when the hour and minute hands pass between 5 and 7. Nonetheless, accepting the sub-dial is essential if you desire an authentic Dirty Dozen watch—it’s part of its heritage.
Strap and Fit
The watch fastens around the wrist with a robust seatbelt nylon that weaves under and over the spring bars, securing the watch to the strap. Personally, I favor NATO-style straps and appreciate the secure fastening style.
Despite its thickness, the seatbelt nylon feels comfortable against the skin and is easy to maintain. The double-back system prevents the watch from accidentally slipping off the strap while putting it on. Nonetheless, here is where I encounter a minor issue with the watch.
The strap fits snugly around my 6.5-inch wrist but leaves about an inch of excess band. This margin allows for a snug fit against the wrist but falls short of enough material to fold back and tuck the surplus strap into the bead-blasted hardware. At times, the extra band catches on my computer, appearing untidy to me.
If I were to purchase this watch, I would opt for an aftermarket NATO strap or use my artistic skills to trim the excess nylon carefully.
Value Proposition
Priced slightly over $1,000, the Heritage Field WWW is venturing into the higher price range. This places it several hundred dollars above Seiko’s Alpinist (and several other watches on our best field watch list).
However, if you sought an original-issue Dirty Dozen, you might end up with a non-functional watch or spend a similar sum on a functioning, period-correct original watch, possibly at a higher price. Original examples are rare.
Among the 12 brands commissioned by the MoD, only Vertex and Timor have reissued field watches available today. While Vertex employs the same Sellita SW260 movement, it comes at a $2,000 premium and boasts a contemporary 40mm size (in contrast to the original 35mm).
