Having pursued frozen climbing challenges for many years, I first ventured into Alaska in the ’90s. Back then, climbers used thick ropes and connected straight-shafted axes to their wrists. However, over time, ice climbing gear has evolved significantly. As the climbing editor for GearJunkie, I’ve had the privilege of trying out a wide range of equipment.
Alaska boasts towering, multi-pitch routes that I aim for during my annual visits to this northern state. Some trips have led to our team making first ascents, while others involved conquering rarely formed and climbed icefalls. On every expedition, I equip myself with the latest gear. While some ice climbing equipment has been marked improvements, others have been less successful, sometimes resulting in stressful situations.
Here are my favored picks for ice climbing gear on extensive, remote routes. This list is likely to change yearly as gear innovations continue, and my memory keeps me coming back to Alaska’s icy and rugged landscapes.
Ice tools, along with crampons, are essential for success on the icy terrains of Alaska. They serve as the points of contact in ice climbing. These tools have evolved from shorter variants of glacier axes to specialized instruments for ice and mixed climbing. Shafts have transitioned from straight to various ergonomic designs. Likewise, picks have become specialized for different types of ice and mixed routes. Material advancements, like carbon fiber, have revolutionized ice-climbing equipment.
Top Choice Ice Tool for Alaska: Trango Kestrel ($500 Each)
Throughout the past decade, I’ve carried two models of ice axes on my Alaskan trips, and the Trango Kestrel has stood out as the standout choice. Weighing in at a verified 1 pound and 3 ounces per tool with the included 2.3-ounce head weights, the Kestrel struck the perfect balance for extensive, backcountry ice climbing. Lighter compared to more aggressive steel-shafted tools like the Black Diamond Reactor (1 pound, 6 ounces without head weights), the Kestrel saved energy on lengthy, steep approaches and large formations. However, they offered more heft than superlight alternatives like the Grivel Dark Machine (17.2 ounces per tool without head weight), leading to better swings and reduced effort for solid placements.
The Kestrel’s shaft bend protected my knuckles, even on low-angle ice, a rare feature. The consistent feel between the main grip and choke grip, perfectly sized for gloves usable in temperatures of 0-20 degrees, stood out to me. Additionally, the gritty shaft texture proved effective with winter gloves. The carbon fiber/Kevlar shafts absorbed harsh vibrations from striking the hardest ice, providing relief to my hands, arms, and wrists during consecutive days of climbing. The included ice picks performed exceptionally well on hard water ice, seamlessly blending into the climbing experience.
The main drawback is the price of the Trango Kestrel at $1,000 for a pair, adding to the financial investment required for this already expensive pursuit. Nonetheless, Trango offers some respite.
Honorable Mention Ice Tool: Trango Raptor ($190 Each)
The Trango Raptor retains the Kestrel’s ergonomics, head, and pick but swaps the carbon/Kevlar shaft for aluminum, resulting in a more cost-effective option. With similarities to the Kestrel, it’s no surprise that I enjoyed using the Raptor on my recent Alaskan ice climbing expedition. They felt remarkably similar to the Kestrels, with slight differences in grip textures (rubber for the Raptor) and vibration dampening of the aluminum shafts.
Although the value proposition is hard to ignore at less than half the cost of the Kestrel, the Trango Raptor stands out as one of the best bargains in ice climbing gear.
Preferred Crampons for Ice Climbing in Alaska: Grivel G20 Plus ($250)
After ice tools, crampons are vital for performance and safety in ice climbing. I’ve tested numerous crampons over the years, and the Grivel G20 Plus has been the standout choice for me. The unique front point configuration offers the versatility of a monopoint with the stability of double points, providing optimal performance on varied terrain.
The steel construction of the Grivel G20 Plus is exceptionally durable, withstanding rigorous use without signs of wear. Although not the lightest option on the market, I have a deep appreciation for its reliability and performance, making them my preferred choice for ice climbing in Alaska.
Top Ice Climbing Boots: LaSportiva G2 EVO ($999 per Pair)
